WHY COMMERCIALLY MADE CURRY POWDER IS NOT USED IN ANGLO-INDIAN HOME COOKING - Bridget White-Kumar (bridgetkumar@yahoo.com)
Curry
powder originated in the Indian sub-continent during the time of the British
Raj. It is a commercially prepared mixture of spices marketed in the West. It was first exported to Britain in the
18th century when Indian merchants sold a concoction of powdered
condiments and spices, similar to garam masala, to the British colonial
government and the British Army returning to Britain. Various British
manufacturing companies then made their own blends of different spices imported
from the Indian Sub-Continent and sold it as Curry Powder, in an attempt to
create a ready-made mix that could recreate the flavors of India to the British
Colonists, who tried to replicate Indian food when they got back home. This
Curry Powder, was usually a mixture of finely ground turmeric, dry red chillies,
coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black pepper, whole spices etc., in mild, medium
or hot strengths.
Hence
Curry Powder was an invention of the British manufacturers in the same way as
they invented Worcestershire sauce and a Vegetable Pickle called Piccalilli
along with other convenience foods in the 19th Century. The ubiquitous curry
powder imparts an unmistakable spicy taste and cloying flavour. Every dish
cooked with it would have the same taste and smell lingers in the air, long
after the dish is eaten. To make a point, there is no such thing as a Madras
Curry Powder in Anglo-Indian Cooking. It was purely an invention of
convenience of the Colonial Cooks in the Madras Presidency to make their work
easier, which ended up with most of the meat and poultry dishes having similar
tastes. There was no standard curry powder as such in India as Indian food made
use of a variety of ingredients and spices depending on the region
Anglo-Indian
Cuisine is a fusion of both western and Indian Cuisine that evolved over
centuries during the Colonial period in the Indian Sub-Continent. A completely
new contemporary cuisine came into existence, making it truly “Anglo” and
“Indian” in nature, which was neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a
distinctive flavour of its own. It became a direct reflection of the
multi-cultural and hybrid heritage of the new colonial population. However,
over time it became more regional based with local ingredients and flavours of
a particular region being incorporated in the dishes while the basic
ingredients remained the same throughout the country. Anglo-Indian Cuisine
therefore, which evolved through many centuries, and stood the test of time,
still lives on in the Anglo-Indian Community
In
the olden days, cooking would take up practically the whole day since
everything had to be prepared from scratch. The masalas or the ‘curry stuff’ in
Anglo-Indian parlance had to be either ground manually on a grinding stone or
pounded with a pestle and motor. There were no readymade curry powders or mixes
at that time. Even the meat, chicken, vegetables, etc., were bought fresh every
day. Since there was no gas, electric or kerosene stoves at that time, every
single dish was cooked over a wood fired oven, which just added to the
wonderful taste! The corner shops would sell the ingredients in small
quantities and the house wife in those days would send the domestic help with a
small chit with a list of the items to be purchased with the price, and the
cooking would start for the day, with the grinding or pounding of the
ingredients.
Hence
‘Ready to use commercially made Curry Powder’, in its literal sense did not
find a place in Anglo-Indian Home Cooking. This was because Anglo-Indian
Cooking makes use of minimal spices and condiments, while extracting the
strength of a few spices at a time. It is the extremely unusual blend of
flavours and the judicious use of Indian spices and herbs, that makes this
cuisine so unique. Global hybridity in the form of ready to use Curry Powders
and instant mixes have not had a major impact on Anglo-Indian Cuisine as such,
since the tastes and flavours are different. However, Bolsts Curry Powder is
the nearest to Anglo-Indian in taste and flavour since it is mild and doesn’t have
too many spices in it.
Over
time, ready-made individual spice powders such as chillie powder, cumin powder,
coriander powder, turmeric, etc began to be used in the right quantities
together, depending on the requirements of the recipe for a particular dish.
This is convenient in the present-day fast pace of life.
Many
families, make their own curry powders at home, by roasting and grinding various
condiments and spices according to individual requirements rather than the
store-bought spice powders. These masala powders are a short cut in cooking and
impart flavour, pungency and aroma in a dish. Different blends of the spice
powders are used for different types of meats and vegetables. Every dish has
many layers of spice that come together in different ways. Sometimes whole
spices are used and sometimes the powders are used in different proportions. Many
times, both whole spices and powders and used in certain dishes. Each and every
Indian spice and condiment has its own special place in the kitchen cupboard
and when combined with each other in a judicious way brings out the magic of
Anglo-Indian Cooking.
Here
are some of my recipes to make your own Homemade Curry Powders at home.
Homemade powders always give a better taste to curries than store bought curry
powders. Make small quantities and store in air tight bottles or jars for
future use.
1. BASIC CHILLIE POWDER
½
kg Red Chilies (long or round variety for pungency)
½
kg Kashmiri Chilies or any other non spicy chillies (for adding colour)
Roast
the two types of chilies in a pan or in a microwave oven for a few minutes.
Powder them at home in the dry blender or get it done at the mill.
A
teaspoon or two of this chillie powder could be used for any type of dish that
calls for chillie powder. It can be stored for more than a year.
2. ANGLO-INDIAN CURRY POWDER
250
grams Red Chillies for pungency
200
grams Kashmiri Chillies or any other chillies for colour
100
coriander seeds
100
grams cumin seeds
Roast
all the above ingredients separately then mix altogether and grind to a fine
powder either in a blender or mixer at home or get it ground in a mill.
A
teaspoon or two of this powder can be used for almost all curries both
vegetarian and non- vegetarian. It can be stored and used for more than a year.
3. ANGLO-INDIAN PEPPER WATER POWDER
250
grams Red Chilies
50
grams pepper corns
50
grams cumin seeds
50
grams coriander seeds
20
grams turmeric powder
Roast
all the above ingredients and then grind together to a powder.
2
teaspoons of this powder should be added to 2 cups of water, juice of 2
tomatoes, a lump of tamarind and a little salt and cooked for 5 minutes to make
instant pepper water. This pepper water should be seasoned with mustard, garlic
and curry leaves.
4. ANGLO-INDIAN ALL SPICE POWDER (GARAM MASALA POWDER)
1
teaspoon pepper corns
1
tablespoon cloves
1
tablespoon cardamoms
3
(one inch) pieces of cinnamon
1
tablespoon fennel seeds (saunf)
Roast
all the above lightly for a few minutes then dry grind to a fine powder.
A
teaspoon of this spice powder can be used for any recipe that calls for all
spice powder or garam masala.
5. ANGLO-INDIAN VINDALOO POWDER / PASTE
25
grams brown mustard seeds
250
grams red chilies for pungency
50
grams cumin seeds
10
grams pepper corns
Roast
all the above ingredients together for a few minutes then powder in a mill or
dry grind in a blender.
Use
2 teaspoons of this powder for every ½ kg of meat when cooking Vindaloo along
with the other ingredients as per the recipe. If this powder is stored in an
airtight bottle it will stay fresh for more than a year. The same mixture can
also be made into a paste if ground in vinegar but it should be stored in the
fridge.