ANGLO-INDIAN CURRY POWDER

 

WHY COMMERCIALLY MADE CURRY POWDER IS NOT USED IN ANGLO-INDIAN HOME COOKING - Bridget White-Kumar (bridgetkumar@yahoo.com)

Curry powder originated in the Indian sub-continent during the time of the British Raj. It is a commercially prepared mixture of spices marketed in the West.  It was first exported to Britain in the 18th century when Indian merchants sold a concoction of powdered condiments and spices, similar to garam masala, to the British colonial government and the British Army returning to Britain. Various British manufacturing companies then made their own blends of different spices imported from the Indian Sub-Continent and sold it as Curry Powder, in an attempt to create a ready-made mix that could recreate the flavors of India to the British Colonists, who tried to replicate Indian food when they got back home. This Curry Powder, was usually a mixture of finely ground turmeric, dry red chillies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black pepper, whole spices etc., in mild, medium or hot strengths.

 Hence Curry Powder was an invention of the British manufacturers in the same way as they invented Worcestershire sauce and a Vegetable Pickle called Piccalilli along with other convenience foods in the 19th Century. The ubiquitous curry powder imparts an unmistakable spicy taste and cloying flavour. Every dish cooked with it would have the same taste and smell lingers in the air, long after the dish is eaten. To make a point, there is no such thing as a Madras Curry Powder in Anglo-Indian Cooking. It was purely an invention of convenience of the Colonial Cooks in the Madras Presidency to make their work easier, which ended up with most of the meat and poultry dishes having similar tastes. There was no standard curry powder as such in India as Indian food made use of a variety of ingredients and spices depending on the region

 

Anglo-Indian Cuisine is a fusion of both western and Indian Cuisine that evolved over centuries during the Colonial period in the Indian Sub-Continent. A completely new contemporary cuisine came into existence, making it truly “Anglo” and “Indian” in nature, which was neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a distinctive flavour of its own. It became a direct reflection of the multi-cultural and hybrid heritage of the new colonial population. However, over time it became more regional based with local ingredients and flavours of a particular region being incorporated in the dishes while the basic ingredients remained the same throughout the country. Anglo-Indian Cuisine therefore, which evolved through many centuries, and stood the test of time, still lives on in the Anglo-Indian Community

 In the olden days, cooking would take up practically the whole day since everything had to be prepared from scratch. The masalas or the ‘curry stuff’ in Anglo-Indian parlance had to be either ground manually on a grinding stone or pounded with a pestle and motor. There were no readymade curry powders or mixes at that time. Even the meat, chicken, vegetables, etc., were bought fresh every day. Since there was no gas, electric or kerosene stoves at that time, every single dish was cooked over a wood fired oven, which just added to the wonderful taste! The corner shops would sell the ingredients in small quantities and the house wife in those days would send the domestic help with a small chit with a list of the items to be purchased with the price, and the cooking would start for the day, with the grinding or pounding of the ingredients.

 Hence ‘Ready to use commercially made Curry Powder’, in its literal sense did not find a place in Anglo-Indian Home Cooking. This was because Anglo-Indian Cooking makes use of minimal spices and condiments, while extracting the strength of a few spices at a time. It is the extremely unusual blend of flavours and the judicious use of Indian spices and herbs, that makes this cuisine so unique. Global hybridity in the form of ready to use Curry Powders and instant mixes have not had a major impact on Anglo-Indian Cuisine as such, since the tastes and flavours are different. However, Bolsts Curry Powder is the nearest to Anglo-Indian in taste and flavour since it is mild and doesn’t have too many spices in it.

 Over time, ready-made individual spice powders such as chillie powder, cumin powder, coriander powder, turmeric, etc began to be used in the right quantities together, depending on the requirements of the recipe for a particular dish. This is convenient in the present-day fast pace of life.

 Many families, make their own curry powders at home, by roasting and grinding various condiments and spices according to individual requirements rather than the store-bought spice powders. These masala powders are a short cut in cooking and impart flavour, pungency and aroma in a dish. Different blends of the spice powders are used for different types of meats and vegetables. Every dish has many layers of spice that come together in different ways. Sometimes whole spices are used and sometimes the powders are used in different proportions. Many times, both whole spices and powders and used in certain dishes. Each and every Indian spice and condiment has its own special place in the kitchen cupboard and when combined with each other in a judicious way brings out the magic of Anglo-Indian Cooking.

Here are some of my recipes to make your own Homemade Curry Powders at home. Homemade powders always give a better taste to curries than store bought curry powders. Make small quantities and store in air tight bottles or jars for future use.

 1. BASIC CHILLIE POWDER

½ kg Red Chilies (long or round variety for pungency)

½ kg Kashmiri Chilies or any other non spicy chillies (for adding colour)

Roast the two types of chilies in a pan or in a microwave oven for a few minutes. Powder them at home in the dry blender or get it done at the mill.

A teaspoon or two of this chillie powder could be used for any type of dish that calls for chillie powder. It can be stored for more than a year.

 2. ANGLO-INDIAN CURRY POWDER

250 grams Red Chillies for pungency    

200 grams Kashmiri Chillies or any other chillies for colour

100 coriander seeds

100 grams cumin seeds

Roast all the above ingredients separately then mix altogether and grind to a fine powder either in a blender or mixer at home or get it ground in a mill.

A teaspoon or two of this powder can be used for almost all curries both vegetarian and non- vegetarian. It can be stored and used for more than a year.

 3. ANGLO-INDIAN PEPPER WATER POWDER

250 grams Red Chilies

50 grams pepper corns

50 grams cumin seeds

50  grams coriander seeds

20 grams turmeric powder

 Roast all the above ingredients and then grind together to a powder.

2 teaspoons of this powder should be added to 2 cups of water, juice of 2 tomatoes, a lump of tamarind and a little salt and cooked for 5 minutes to make instant pepper water. This pepper water should be seasoned with mustard, garlic and curry leaves.

 4. ANGLO-INDIAN ALL SPICE POWDER (GARAM  MASALA POWDER)

1 teaspoon pepper corns

1 tablespoon cloves

1 tablespoon cardamoms

3 (one inch) pieces of cinnamon

1 tablespoon fennel seeds (saunf)

 Roast all the above lightly for a few minutes then dry grind to a fine powder.

A teaspoon of this spice powder can be used for any recipe that calls for all spice powder or garam masala.

 5. ANGLO-INDIAN VINDALOO  POWDER / PASTE

25 grams brown mustard seeds

250 grams red chilies for pungency                                           

50 grams cumin seeds

10 grams pepper corns

 Roast all the above ingredients together for a few minutes then powder in a mill or dry grind in a blender.

 Use 2 teaspoons of this powder for every ½ kg of meat when cooking Vindaloo along with the other ingredients as per the recipe. If this powder is stored in an airtight bottle it will stay fresh for more than a year. The same mixture can also be made into a paste if ground in vinegar but it should be stored in the fridge.